Scroll saw patterns and scrollsaw patterns
Downloadable scroll saw patterns at the Berry Basket

Want to start scrolling TODAY?!?  The Berry Basket is BACK!
Visit the NEW site today and start your scroll saw TODAY.
100's of patterns to choose from, one low price for each.
$ 5 downloads -- ALL patterns just $5 each!

We are glad to see YOU in the hobby of scroll sawing and woodworking!

Whether you're a seasoned pro, or a clueless beginner, we know you're at a specific point in your scroll saw hobby.  We might help you in a couple ways.

We want to offer you the best and most appropriate help RIGHT NOW, so choose the link below that best describes what you're in need of today.  Please bookmark us by pressing "CTRL-D" and tell your scrolling buddies about this resource.

I know what I'm doing -- I'm looking for some GOOD scroll saw patterns.

I'm completely new to the scroll saw.  I need ALL the info I can get!

I need information about proper blade selection.

I'm looking to buy a scroll saw, do you have any suggestions ?

Talk about true love!  He MADE a scroll saw!

I'm looking for some GOOD patterns...

If you're looking for good patterns for the scroll saw, we have the place for you.  Click on over to The Berry Basket website and view hundreds of patterns.

The Berry Basket has been around for almost 20 years.  Each pattern you buy comes will full size patterns you can adhere directly onto wood and start cutting.  There is also plenty of information in each pattern regarding materials needed and any special instructions or shop notes required for building.

Currently, The Berry Basket only offers downloadable patterns.  Each pattern is only $5.oo and can immediately be accessed after your purchase -- which means you can select a pattern and start scrolling immediately!  The patterns print on 8.5" x 11" paper, making them easy to print right off your desk top on normal typing paper.

Visit The Berry Basket today and start scrolling TODAY!


I'm TOTALLY new to the scroll saw...

You are?  Then, welcome friend!   Scrolling is an exciting, rewarding hobby!

We have some great information for you.  Grab a cup of coffee and take some time to read the info we've compiled here...

You may have heard that scrolling is an expensive hobby.  Sure, there are some up front costs, as with any hobby, but even if you buy all new equipment you can easily get started for under $150.  If you're a garage sale nut, if you go to auctions, or if you know someone with a scrollsaw to sell, then it can be even less expensive.

Step 1 -- Purchasing a Saw
If you're just getting started, we don't recommend paying more than $150 for a new scroll saw at a retail store.  There are many decent models right around $120.  You never want to buy the most expensive equipment when you're just getting started in a new hobby because you can always upgrade once you're hooked -- the machines that are in the price range we recommend are JUST FINE.

As with any piece of equipment you buy, the more features you add, the higher the price goes.  Keep in mind that many "add-ons" can be added on yourself at home, like a light bulb for instance.  It's easy to set up a work light with a clamp or stand, so keep this mindset when you're tempted to go with a more expensive model.

The biggest decision you'll have to make when buying a new scroll saw is whether to get a machine that takes "pin-end" blades, or regular "flat" blades.

Left is a "pin-end" blade.  A small pin is inserted through both ends of the blade, as pictured.  "Flat" blades, as you imagine, just don't have a pin!

These blades are NOT recommended.

Animals scroll saw patterns desk clock mini

Wildlife Mini Desk Clock
Scroll Saw Pattern at BerryBasket

Table top scrolled box scroll saw pattern by Berry Basket

One of the "Advanced Scroll Saw
project patterns at BerryBasket

Basket scroll saw patterns by Berry Basket

Collapsible Baskets Pattern Set
for the Scroll Saw at BerryBasket

Scroll saw patterns for toy cars and trucks by Berry Basket

Scroll Saw Patterns for Toy Cars
and Trucks at BerryBasket

The advantage to pin-end blades is that there is no clamp to work and you can set the tension immediately as you lock in the blade.  Tensioning the blade in the machine is something that scares a lot of people into going the "pin-end" route -- but I'll warn you, the advantages to using a pin-end system are small and short-lived.

The metal of pin-end blades is necessarily thicker in order to receive the pin.  If the metal is too thin, the pin will not work from an engineering standpoint.  The thicker blades cause a couple of problems.  1. The blades will break more easily on tight turns, and 2. The big pin will not fit through small holes you drill -- you will be limited in what type of projects you can do if you select a pin-end only machine.

There are some machines that are set up to take both flat AND pin-end blades, in which case, you might be OK if you're dead set on using pin-end blades.

The reason a pin-end VS. flat blade machine is the biggest decision you will make about your new saw is that there is no going back, no upgrade to switch you.  You would have to buy a completely different/new scroll saw in order to change.

Other aspects to think about when purchasing your first scrollsaw are:

  • Size of the table (work surface)
  • Adjustable speed or constant speed
  • Brand

Scrolling is such a user-specific hobby.  By that I mean if you were to ask 5 scrollers the same question, you'd likely get 5 different answers!  Each scroller develops in a different way, using different blades, different techniques. . .so you're going to have to use your knowledge of yourself and your own likes/dislikes when it comes to some of the decisions on selecting your first scroll saw.

Brand, for example, is a big deal to some people.  Craftsman is good, Dremel is good, but maybe you don't care or maybe you've had good or bad experience with these or another brand -- I can't tell you which brand to choose.  Keep in mind though, that the electric motor is one of the best, most maintenance-free devices ever created -- and that's what's at the heart of every scroll saw.  The motor is NOT going to fail 99.9% of the time you purchase a product with an electric motor, so consider other factors.

Adjustable speed is nice and can come in handy, but it's not necessary.  Even the most experienced scrollers will tell you they seldom if ever use it.  That said, being able to dial down the speed of the blade DOES have certain benefits, specifically for the beginner, is the ability to cut more slowly allowing for more control and an easier learning curve without burning up wood.  But, again, in the old days, there was no adjustable speed and some how we did just fine without it!

Dust blowers, lights, foot pedal operating switches -- all of these "add-ons" can be considered as you see fit.  My recommendation, bottom line:  think price.

Step 2 -- Selecting Blades
If you've just purchased a saw, odds are the manufacturer will include a few sample blades for you in with your scroll saw.  Keep in mind that those blades are in there because that blade company had marketing connections, not necessarily because they are the best blade maker!

Hand-on experience and "tinkering" is the best teacher, so if you already have some blades laying around or a buddy will give you some, my best advice is to just start cutting and get a feel for what each size and/or type of blade will do.

As I've said before, ask 5 scrollers the same question and you'll likely get 5 different answers -- and each answer may well be "correct".

Basic answer:  To find a BRAND, you'll need to experiment with blades.

Brand of blade aside, here are some basic guidelines for blade selection:

First, on the numbering of scroll saw is a general scale from smallest to the largest -- note the change from 1/0 to 1:

    Smallest size blade...
    12 the Largest size blade.

The smallest blades which deliver the finest cut are your "nought" blades, as they are called in the hobby (as 1902 was called "nought 2").  These blades can get as small as a strand of human hair for the finest work, but for most scrollers you should probably stock 2/0 and 1/0 blades at first and go from there.

Here's an idea of what you'd be cutting with various sizes of blades:

    2/0:     1/8"-1/4" softwoods, lots of turns or very fine detail...

    1:        1/8"-1/4" softwood or hardwoods with detail...

    5:        3/4" stacked or unstacked material...but not very fine detail...

    12:      Up to 1" of material, usually used for cutting pieces to size.

Keep in mind, this is a general guide.  You need to play with the different sizes to see what you think they are best for -- ask 5 scrollers, get 5 answers.

The thicker and/or harder the material you're cutting, the "larger" blade you will need to make the cut.  The more detail-oriented the project you're cutting, the "smaller" or more precise blade you will need.  As you can see, there is a balancing act to play between a blade sturdy enough to cut your material VS. a blade fine enough to make the detailed cuts your project requires of you!

When I say "stacked" I refer to a technique used by scrollers in which multiple pieces of 1/8" or 1/4" material is taped together with double-sided tape (or nailed, etc.) so one may cut the same pattern from multiple work pieces at one time, rendering multiple projects from just one pass of the saw blade.

Now that you have an idea about the sizes of blades, let's discuss the main types of blades which are currently available.  Reverse-tooth, skip-tooth, double-tooth, and non-reverse blades are the most commonly touted blades.

Reverse-Tooth blades have 3/4 of the teeth which cut down through the wood from the top, while the remaining 1/4 of the teeth point up and slice through the wood on the upstroke of the saw -- this leaves far less sanding to do on the reverse side of the piece you are cutting...that's the main reason people like them.

Skip-Tooth blades, as the name implies, are missing every other tooth.  This makes for a more aggressive cut and the cavity created by the missing teeth pulls some of the saw dust up and out of the project and some say reduce wood burning.

Double-Tooth blades, again as the name implies, have two teeth where only one tooth normally resides.  Despite the extra tooth, these blades cut less aggressively which allows for better workpiece control for the beginner or special projects.

Non-Reverse blades are generally considered any blade with full "toothage" in which all teeth point the same direction, that direction being down.

For simplicity's sake, I've put together what I consider the "Beginner's Pack" -- it's a suggested place to start and have a blade for every occassion...

    "The Beginner's Pack of Blades"  (A suggestion.)
    2/0  --  Great for detail work.
    1     --  Still good for detail work, but for thicker/harder stock.
    3     --  Cut stacks or hardwoods with a bit of detail.
    9     --  Aggressively rip anything to size for subsequent detail working.

If you go with the above selection of just four blade sizes, you should be able to tackle just about any scenario pretty well.

What TYPE of blade to use?  As a catch all, I recommend the Reverse-Tooth!  These blades really do reduce sanding and tear out on the bottom of your project, giving you a nice clean cut with a still-very-controllable cutting action.

What BRAND of blade to use?  I recommend "Flying Dutchman" blades.  I'm not a salesman for them, but I find them to be the best quality.  Again, ask 5 scrollers and you'll get 5 different opinions about who makes the best blade.

Step 3 -- Tensioning your blade properly.
Finally!  You've got a saw.  You've got a blade or two.  What's next??

Tensioning a blade in the machine.  You'll hear everyone you talk to say you need to tune it to a "high C" note.  That's not very helpful unless you have perfect pitch in your ear, or if you have a tuning fork in high C note.

This is just one of those things you'll have to learn for yourself.  The note IS indeed distinctive and you'll recognize it and remember it once you get it.  It is a high pitch sound that, well, just SOUNDS right to the ear.  It's a "ting".

A few general things about blade tensioning...  If the blade is too tight you will break blades often.  If the blade is too loose, you will break blades too often!

The blade should appear as a single black line when the machine is running.  If it looks blurry, it is probably wobbling from being too loose in the clamps.  If the blade pops out of your clamp, it's probably too loose (you can also try rubbing sand paper on the clamp faces to roughen it up and give the blade something to grab onto).

Step 4 -- What are you going to make?
You certainly don't NEED a pattern to have fun with your scroll saw (though I'm sure you'll want one eventually to make a really cool project). 
One great idea I've heard is to go grab a leaf out of your back yard.  Just trace it onto wood with a pencil and get to cutting -- just jump right in!  Learn how your scroll saw cuts.

If you have a pattern, however, you'll need to affix it to the wood stock.  Scrollers in the past used transfer carbon paper and traced EVERY line onto the wood.

Nowadays, most people use 3M 77 spray adhesive.  By spraying a light coating on the back of which ever pattern you're going to use, letting it dry to the point of being sticky, then applying it to the wood, you'll find you can cut right through the paper and into the wood.  Later, peel off the pattern.  It usually comes off easily, but if it does not peel right off try heating the pattern/adhesive up with an iron or hair dryer, OR using a bit of semi-harsh solvent like alcohol.  If all else fails, you can sand the pattern off, but that is a messy option to be avoided if at all possible.

During the course of your scrolling, you'll eventually make something which requires an inside cut to be made.  Many projects have MULTIPLE inside cuts, possibly even hundreds of inside cuts if it is a super-detailed project!

When an inside cut is required, you must drill through the wood, usually close to a corner or "knook".  Use a drill bit just slightly larger than the blade you plan on cutting the piece with, then you can insert your blade up through the hole, re-attach and tension the blade and begin your cut.  When you've reached the end of that inside cut, it's time to un-hook the blade, remove the work piece and repeat as necessary.

Step 5 -- How do you cut with a scroll saw?
Never, with any tool for that matter, NEVER, "hog" the wood or attempt to force it through the material too quickly.

Allow the blade to do the cutting.  This is one of the skills that cannot be explained, it just needs to be learned through experience and practice.  You need to keep the work piece moving.  Try to keep the piece moving steadily, not turning off the machine until you're finished cutting the line you're working on or unless you've run into a safety problem with your work.

Remember, it's always easier to back a blade up when the saw is running.  If you let the saw run too long, though, with the blade in one place, it will begin to burn the wood due to the friction the moving blade is creating against the wood.

Start out with a simple project.  A puzzle perhaps.  Long, smooth lines with very little detail are the best to start with and get a feel for how the saw cuts.

Practice, practice, practice.

Safety, safety, safety.   Watch those fingers.  Take your time and enjoy!

I hope you've enjoyed this little guide.  I hope you've learned something or that I've at least perked your interest in the scroll saw.  Scrolling is truly a great hobby!

If you have questions or comments, please email me:

BerryBasketPlans (at sign @)

Best Regards in Scrolling,
B. Matthew Jones

Scroll saw patterns for animals and wildlife

Wildlife Tissue Box Cover
Scroll Saw Pattern at BerryBasket

Basket patterns for the scroll saw

Decorative Hinged Basket
Scroll Saw Pattern at BerryBasket

Christmas ornament scroll saw patterns for holiday

Snowflake Christmas Ornament
Scroll Saw Pattern at BerryBasket

Doll cradle scroll saw pattern

Ornate Doll Cradle Scroll Saw
Pattern at BerryBasket

Wheelbarrow pattern for scrollsaw -- wheel barrow

Decorative Wheelbarrow Planter
Scroll Saw Pattern at BerryBasket

Army insignia plaque for scroll saw pattern

U.S. Army Scroll Sawn Plaque
at BerryBasket

Barn bird house and birdfeeder scroll saw pattern

Barn Style Bird House and Birdfeeder
Scroll Saw Patterns at BerryBasket

CD tower scroll saw pattern

CD Holding Tower Scroll Saw
Pattern at BerryBasket

Cathedral church music box scroll saw patterns

Cathedral Music Box Project
Scroll Saw Patterns at BerryBasket

Fishing scroll saw patterns

"Old Fisherman" Scroll Sawn Plaque
Pattern at BerryBasket

Curio shelf patterns for scroll saw

Home Sweet Home Curio Shelf
Scroll Saw Pattern at BerryBasket

Hummingbird scroll saw pattern

Hummingbird Small Intarsia
Scroll Saw Pattern at BerryBasket

Military branches scroll saw patterns desk sets

Four Branches Desk Plaque Set
of Scroll Saw Patterns by BerryBasket

ALL BerryBasket Scroll Saw
Patterns are Just $5.oo Each!

(Download Price Only)

Painted Colt Intarsia
Eagle in Feather
Lazy Cat Intarsia
Large Wild Horses Display
Brown Bear in Brown Bear
Bull Dog
Deer Galley Shelf
Deer in Rifle II
Deer in Rifle III
Gone Hunting Deer
Nativity Scene with Animals
Turkey in Shotgun
Bald Eagle Intarsia
Bald Eagle with Clock
Barrel Racing Horse
Bear in Paddle
Bear in Rifle
Blue Jay Intarsia
Buffalo in Buffalo
Deer in Rifle IIII
Dolphin Intarsia
Bald Eagle Head Intarsia
Eagle in Rifle
Elk in Rifle II
End of Trail Feather (with horse)
Faerie Frolick in Tree
Faerie with Moon
Horse in Feather
Horse in Rifle
Hummingbird with Faerie Clock
Hummingbird in Heart
Hummingbird Tissue Box Cover
Moose in Rifle
Mountain Bears in Scenery
Pheasant in Shotgun
Easter Rabbit Intarsia
Pack of Butterflies
Sleeping Cat Intarsia
Squirrel Intarsia
Wee Barnyard Friends Packet
Wild Horses Desktop Clocks
Wolf in Wolf Head
Wolf in Rifle

All-American Toy Builder's Book
BIG BOOK of Scrollsaw Patterns
Box Making Projects
Birdhouses and Feeders Book
Dog Breed Patterns Book
Great Outdoor Patterns Book
Making Doll Furniture Book
The Real Wood Bible Book
Sports Scrollsaw Pattern Book

Crown of Thorns
The Lord's Supper
Detailed Rose Cross
Table Top Nativity Scene
Angel in Feather
Angelic Welcome Sign
Christian Cross Packet
Guardian Angel
Star of David Packet

Fishing Rod Rack
Deer Galley Shelf
10 Scrollsaw Shelves Pack
Silhouette Mantle Clocks Pack
Drink Coasters. . .Classy
Detailed Chests with Inlay
Garden Bench with Inlay
"Film Strip" Picture Frames
Georgetown Lighthouse Clock
Hummingbird with Faerie Clock
Hummingbird Tissue Box Cover
Marble Chest. . .Must See!
Mission Oak Mantle Clock
Morris Island Lighthouse Clock
Nautical Clocks Packet
Tabletop Palm Tree Display
Sports Clocks Packet
Scrollsawn Vase 15
Scrollsawn Vase 4
Wild Horses Clock Packet
World Map Wall Display

Wedding Rings Anniversary (The biggest holiday??)
Table Top Nativity Scene
Detailed Christmas Tree Ornaments
Christmas Poinsettia Intarsia Wreath
Easter Rabbit Intarsia
Wee Christmas Elves Intarsia
Three Reindeer Planters
Holiday Honkers Yard Geese
Santa Announcement Sign with Lettering Set
Christmas Elves No.1 Intarsia
Christmas Elves No.2 Intarsia
Christmas Pole People Packet
Halloween Intarsia No.1
Halloween Intarsia No.2

Bald Eagle Intarsia
Painted Colt (Horse) Intarsia
Blue Jay Intarsia
Christmas Elves No.1
Christmas Elves No.2
Dolphin Intarsia
Eagle Head Intarsia
Halloween Intarsia No.1
Halloween Intarsia No.2
Nativity Scene No.1
Nativity Scene No.2
Poinsettia Wreath Intarsia
Rabbit Intarsia
Sleeping Cat Intarsia
Squirrel Intarsia
Thanksgiving Intarsia No.1
Wee Christmas Elves


Bald Eagle in Feather
Iwo Jima in Bald Eagle
Screaming Eagle in USA Flag
Air Force Insignia
American Fireman in USA Flag
Army Insignia
Bald Eagle Intarsia
Bald Eagle with Clock
Eagle Head Intarsia
Eagle in USA Flag
Marine Corps Insignia
Navy Insignia
Vietnam Memorial in USA Flag
Vietnam Memorial Fretwork

Deer in Wildlife Scenery Galley Shelf
Buffalo Head with Native American Scenery
Faerie Frolick in Old Oak Tree
Hummingbird in Flower with Clock
Hummingbird Tissue Box Cover in Flowers
Mountain Bears in Scenery
Native American Scenery Feather Packet
Palm Tree Desktop Display
Wolf Head with Scenery
World Map -- Wall Size Display

Anniversary Wedding Rings
New Baby Commemorative Plaques
"I'm Somebody" -- Little Girl
"I'm Somebody" -- Little Boy
"Gone Hunting" -- Buck Deer
Scrolling Lettering Set
Angelic "Welcome" Sign
Grandpa's Hand Display
Wedding Commemorative Plaque Packet

Baseball Glove with Baseball Player
Fishing Rod Rack with Bass Theme
Sports Clocks -- Baseball, Golf, Fishing
Wolf in Rifle
Deer in Rifle II
Deer in Rifle III
Gone Hunting Deer
Turkey in Shotgun
Bear in Rifle
Deer in Rifle IIII
Eagle in Rifle
Elk in Rifle II
Horse in Rifle
Moose in Rifle
Pheasant in Shotgun

Allosaurus Pull Toy
Crane with Working Wrecking Ball
Road Grader
Wooden Toy Value Pack -- MUST SEE!!
One Hour Projects Variety Pack
10 Kids' Animal and Fun Wall Clocks
100 Patterns Value Pack
24 Wooden Toy Cars and Trucks
4 Foot Toy Train
7 Classic Wooden Autos
Antique Autos Desk Displays
Antique Toys and Games Packet
Armored Rocking Horse -- MASSIVE SCROLLING
Bavarian Doll House
Cavalry Outpost Playset
Circus Playset
Classic Farm Playset
Deluxe Toy Locomotive
Carrousel Rocking Horse -- MASSIVE SCROLLING
Detailed Circus Train with Animals
Early American Toys Packet
Farm and Ranch Playset
Fashion Doll House
Ferry Boat Playset with Toy Autos
Gas Station Playset with Toy Autos
Lumberjack Toy Train
Marble Machine Bell Tower -- Must See!
Simple Marble Machine Toy
Mr.Topps the Dancing Man Antique Toy
The Name Train -- with Lettering Set
Noah's Ark Playset with Animals
Noah's Ark with Animals No.2
Old Fashioned Animal Pull Toy Packet
Rubberband Powered Toy Paddle Boat
Antique Stick Horse
The Smallest Tot Rocker You Will Find
Toy Sailboat
USA Map Puzzle Set
Wooden Toy Animal Banks for Kids
Toy Tool Playset with Toolbox
Wildflower Detailed Rocking Horse -- MASSIVE

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